Wing Collar Shirts: The Black-Tie Guide
Nothing says formal like a wing collar. It is the shirt most people picture when they think of a tuxedo, and it is built around one accessory: the bow tie. It is also easy to get slightly wrong. This guide covers when to wear a wing collar shirt, how it should fit, and how to wear it with a bow tie.
What Is a Wing Collar?
A wing collar is a short, stiff standing collar with two small tips folded outward at the front, like a pair of wings. It is a descendant of the detachable collars men wore in the late 1800s and early 1900s. It has survived because it frames a bow tie perfectly and does not work with anything else.
Wing Collar or Turndown Collar for Black Tie?
This is the most common question, so here is a straight answer:
- White tie: a wing collar is required, usually on a stiff-fronted shirt.
- Black tie: both are correct. Purists prefer a classic turndown (spread) collar with a pleated front, which is considered the more traditional choice for black tie. A wing collar is widely accepted and gives a crisper, more formal look.
- Weddings and proms: go with whatever you and the rest of the party like. Just keep everyone consistent.
If you are torn, think about comfort. Some men find a wing collar feels tighter over a long evening, because it stands up around the neck instead of folding down.
Fronts, Cuffs and Buttons
- Pleated front: the most common, with narrow ¼-inch pleats down each side of the placket. It looks sharp under a jacket and is easy to wear.
- Piqué (bib) front: a stiff textured panel. It is more formal and the traditional choice for white tie.
- French cuffs: the standard for formal shirts. They fold back and fasten with cufflinks, not buttons.
- Studs or buttons: many tuxedo shirts are made for shirt studs in place of the top front buttons. Others have a covered placket that hides ordinary buttons. Either is correct, but studs are the more classic detail.
Our wing collar shirt picks
- Neil Allyn 100% Cotton Wing Collar Tuxedo Shirt — French cuffs, a classic regular fit
- Neil Allyn Slim Fit Wing Collar Shirt, ¼" Pleats — for a trimmer silhouette
- Cardi 100% Cotton Wing Collar Tuxedo Shirt, ¼" Pleat — a well-rated alternative with a wide size range
- HAWSON Mother of Pearl Cufflinks & Studs Set — to finish the cuffs and front
How a Wing Collar Shirt Should Fit
- Get the neck size right. A wing collar stands up, so there is nowhere for a loose fit to hide. You should be able to slip one finger, and no more, between the collar and your neck.
- Check the sleeves. About a quarter to half an inch of cuff should show beyond your jacket sleeve.
- Keep the body neat. Excess fabric puffs out between the jacket and trousers. Choose a slim fit if you are slim.
- Press it well. A wing collar and pleated front show every wrinkle. A quick pass with a steamer before you dress makes a big difference.
How to Wear a Bow Tie With a Wing Collar
The rule most people miss: the wing tips go behind the bow tie. The band of the bow tie runs around your neck under the collar, and the bow sits in front, with the small wings tucked neatly behind it. If the wings sit in front of the bow, it looks like a costume.
- Wear a self-tie bow tie. With a wing collar the whole knot is on show, and a hand-tied bow looks noticeably better than a pre-tied one.
- For black tie, choose black silk or satin to match your lapels. For a wedding, the bow tie is where you can bring in the color palette.
- Never wear a long necktie with a wing collar.
Find the right bow in our Black Tie & Formal collection, or step up to our Luxe bow ties for a knot that holds its shape all night.
The Bottom Line
A wing collar shirt is the most formal shirt you can own. Wear it for white tie and, if you like the look, for black tie. Get the neck size exact, choose French cuffs with studs, tuck the wings behind a self-tie bow tie, and you will look right at home at any formal event.
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